iSpindel Troubleshooting and Known Issues

Published by Joey Joe Joe Jr on

iSpindel Troubleshooting

Click this link to get to The main iSpindel webpage. It includes a shopping list, assembly instructions, a guide on how to load the firmware, calibration instructions, and more!

D1 Mini

Issue: iSpindel has been flashed with the firmware and everything appears to have completed successfully. However, the iSpindel doesn’t show up as a wifi network while in configuration mode and therefore the access point is unavailable.

Possible Reasons: There have been reports that D1 minis with squared-off top corners are bad and will not work. The two units below were bought from the same vendor at the same time. One good unit, one bad one.

Solution 1: Update firmware. This issue may be caused by the firmware and the configuration file. I’m not sure why one board works and the other does not, but there are reports that updated firmware can resolve the issue.

Solution 2: Try de-soldering the D1 mini and replacing it.

Squared-off top corners are bad.

Power Related

Issue: During charging LEDs are both on solid, or both LEDs are blinking. TP4056 chip is fried.

Possible Reasons: Your D1 mini is installed upside down.

Solutions: Unknown how much damage was done. Solution pending.

Issue: Smoke when iSpindel is switched on. FS8205A chip is fried.

Possible Reasons: You battery was put in upside down.

Solutions: Unknown how much damage was done. Solution pending.

Temp Probe

Issue: Can’t get into the access point. You are getting serial monitor OW errors. Messages like this:

ERROR: cannot find a OneWire Temperature Sensor!
Acc Test Connection ERROR!

Solution: The temp probe and gyroscope share the same power connection. Installing the temp probe backwards will fry the temp probe and possibly the gyroscope as well. Try replacing the temp probe first and if that doesn’t work replace the gyroscope.

Fire

Issue: iSpindel caught fire.

Possible Reasons: The D1 mini was plugged in via its USB port, the iSpindel was turned on, the battery was still in the iSpindel, and the diode was never removed from the D1 mini. This applies overvoltage to the battery and can damage it causing a fire.

Solution: Be sure to remove the diode from you iSpindels.

Click this link to get to The main iSpindel webpage. It includes a shopping list, assembly instructions, a guide on how to load the firmware, calibration instructions, and more!


Joey Joe Joe Jr

I was born on a pirate ship off the coast of Peru where I was given a traditional Aztec upbringing, during which I excelled in the arts of sciences. At age seven my parents accidentally murdered each other in a freak fencing accident. Heartbroken I joined the tribe of Omaha, where I trained under the legendary Vin Diesel. At age eighteen, after a failed Fear Factor audition, I set out for a berry plantation roughly four kilometers south of Albuquerque. I currently reside at Ram Ranch which really rocks!

20 Comments

Mr Matt · October 29, 2020 at 9:54 AM

Does the D1 mini need to be mounted on the iSpindle for it to work? I have flashed several and I cannot get them to throw the iSpindle wireless network. Should I solder it up and then try?

    Joey Joe Joe Jr · October 29, 2020 at 5:53 PM

    Hey Matt,

    You can flash the firmware before assembly but you can only get to the access point if all the components aren’t connected. However, you can hook it up to the serial monitor and see the messages there that indicate a successful flash. My recommendation is to flash, remove the diode, assemble, then connect to the access point.

      Mr MAtt · October 30, 2020 at 7:31 AM

      Thanks Joey Joe Joe Jr! I was getting frustrated thinking it should work before soldering! Hooked it up yesterday and BOOM!

        Joey Joe Joe Jr · November 12, 2020 at 9:30 AM

        Nice! Glad it all worked out!

Erick Rodriguez · November 24, 2020 at 8:03 AM

In the Homebrew Talk blog

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/ispindel-cant-connect-to-wifi-ap.682798/

redfoxblueeagle on october 26 mention that with a modification he made to the firmware, both round and square corners works fine but I really don’t undertand what he did.

    Joey Joe Joe Jr · November 29, 2020 at 12:38 PM

    That is awesome. I will update my post accordingly. Thanks for sharing Erick.

Stephanie · December 5, 2020 at 2:09 AM

Question about the ESP8266 not waking. I saw an old trouble shooting string about this and the main solution was to replace the 4.7k ohm resistor with another BAT43 diode. Is this true? Does it work to wake the ispindel? Is there a different solution? Which way does the diode go in? I have the cherry Phillips 4.0 PCB.

    Joey Joe Joe Jr · January 5, 2021 at 10:49 PM

    The Cherry Phillips 4.0 PCB should already have a BAT43, which is used for deep sleep. There should be a line on the diode and a line on the PCB, make sure that they are on the same side. Can you be more specific about your issues. Are you able to get a serial monitor output? What does it say?

Santiago · December 21, 2020 at 2:57 AM

Hi Joe, thank you first for your time.

I have made a spindel with your last board and with the components that I have been buying.

I have configured everything and it always works in programming mode (I can change the parameters, SSID, Pasword iSopinde Name, Update interval, it is linked with Token number with ubidots, etc)
My problem is when I update and connect it simply to receive data in ubidots it does not emit the data, it just connects but no longer emits the data (I have modified the update frequency and neither).
Help what can it be, I have reinstalled the software and it still does not work.

Thank you

Shaun · December 22, 2020 at 3:50 AM

Hello, loving the great infirmation found here and on youtube, in fact i am succesfully using two ispindels and gave veen for some time. I have a query and that is: how easy is it to change wifi links?

My new ISP begins soon and i,’m a but worried that mt brewfather app will no longer read data from my devices, any help would be great.

Thanks in advance

    Joey Joe Joe Jr · January 5, 2021 at 10:55 PM

    When you say “wifi links” do you mean wifi SSID and password (different wifi connection/network)?

Tobias Petersen · July 30, 2021 at 8:36 AM

Don’t know how fool proof you want this guide but I had a unit where I mounted the BAT43 diode the wrong way which didn’t immediately give any problems and I could access the wifi endpoint, configure and store settings but it never kept the connection to the real wifi and wouldn’t report any data points. That’s not the error I would expect from a misturned diode so didn’t occur to test that directly (had already done the error with mounting the D1 the wrong way as well so my thoughts were that something was damaged with it or the TP4056)

Your PCB is really clear (didn’t stop a clown like me from mounting the D1 wrong as well though, no permanent damage to anything after resoldering it the correct way though) so that’s not an issue but if it’s a common mistake enough I would add it here under WiFi problems as it wasn’t the sort of error I would expect for a misturned diode and would’ve helped me.

    Joey Joe Joe Jr · September 11, 2021 at 1:12 PM

    My assumption is that if the diode is installed backward the iSpindel cannot reset itself. Great to know the symptoms of this issue. Thanks for sharing.

      Tobias Petersen · September 12, 2021 at 9:50 AM

      Yeah, the WiFi problems were unrelated and persists after fixing the diode. Probably related to the board revision you’ve mentioned elsewhere.

      A note about the inability to wake-up and report by itself being related to the diode maybe anyway? Not under WiFi problems though if course in that case but general trouble shooting.

Jeff Mann · November 26, 2021 at 6:57 PM

Hi Joe, just completed an ispindel build using the Jeffrey 2.69 PCB. Have successfully flashed the firmware and completed initial calibration all using your videos! Thanks! The issue I have is the Temperature is reading -40 Degrees C. Current home temp is around 20 Deg C so this is vastly inaccurate. When I place my fingers on the sensor the temp rises as would be expected but only by a few degrees. Have you experienced this before? Could it be the sensor or possibly the 4.7k resistor? Not sure how to takle this. Otherwise everything seems to working correctly, icnluding the Gyro. Thanks again.

Krump Lee · December 9, 2021 at 8:57 AM

Hey Joey Dzsoe Jey Jonny Jr, oh My Jesus !

1st of all thank all of your hard work
my first attempt to build my iSipndel following your instruction faild..
the serial says : mem check fail dr
is my d1 mini pro dead or is it pissible some soldering fail (i am a beginner)

Roland · December 20, 2021 at 4:23 AM

I love the YouTube channel and all information shared here! So many thanks for that 🙂
But I have a small question and I seems I can not find an answer…. I have bought a pre assembled iSpindel with 2.69 PCB. All is working accept the display of the battery Voltage, it is just 0.02V. When I measure pin A0 it gives a heathy 4.02 so I’m missing 4!
I have flashed to the latest version… Did the Wemos D1 die? Or how can I debug this?

Thank you for any help!

Cheers and have a nice day!

Roland

ppressle · December 31, 2021 at 5:02 PM

Hi, My ispindel stopped working after a week or so of working properly wutg Brew-spy. Configuration seems fine, but I am seeing an error when iSpindel attempts to send data to Brew-spy or Brewfather. Flashed to the latest firmware, tried different APs, but no luck. How to I find more info on what is failing on the post? From the log: code: -1[HYYP] POST… failed, error: connection failed
Thanks
Pete

Michal · July 27, 2024 at 3:21 AM

Thank you for your contribution to the iSpindel project 🙂 I have just built my first one (and will be building some more for my friends). I’d like to add two issues that I had and how I solved them:

1. When I plugged a USB-C cable into the charging board nothing happened. No LED’s, no power draw. This is happening with a higher end USB-C fast charger. When I use a USB-A to USB-C cable and plug it into a USB-A charger the problem goes away. I guess the USB-C fast charger expects some data communication with the charger board which is obviously not there and then just refuses to provide power to the circuit.

2. I was able to power on the board only if the micro USB cable was connected to the D1 mini. When I disconnected the cable the device stayed powered on, but as soon as I powered it off I was only able to power it back on if the D1 mini was plugged in.
This was caused by the 18650 battery being dead. It wasn’t able to provide the higher current needed during the boot phase of the D1 mini. That’s why I was able to “jump start” the circuit with a micro USB cable. I then charged the 18650 and the problem went away.

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